The Comprehensive Corgi Guide- A Resource for New and Future Owners

Last updated: January 9, 2018

Table of Contents

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01.   A Brief History- Touches upon the origin of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi

02.   The Tail of Two Corgis- Describes the general differences between the Pembroke and Cardigan Welsh Corgis

03.   So I Heard You Like Herding- A discussion on how the Corgi’s historical purpose affects its attitudes, personality, and habits
    03a.  General temperament and expected behavior
    03b.  Keeping the Corgi happy and fulfilled

04.   A Short Dog’s Shortcomings- Describes the health issues one should be prepared to deal with in a Corgi

05.   A Hairy Situation- Shedding and grooming are briefly described

06.   Final Rebarks- Closing this massive document
    06a. A note about "blue merle Pembrokes"

A Brief History- 01
Pembroke Welsh Corgis have been around since 1107 AD in some way, shape, or form.  They certainly didn’t look how they look today, but there are historical records describing a short-legged dog used for driving cattle in ye olde Pembrokeshire, Wales.  Though the origins are murky, it is suspected that the Pembroke came about as a result of the proto-Cardigan Welsh Corgi allowed to interbreed with Flemish Spitz-type dogs.  Despite the Pembroke’s antiquity, the breed was not recognized by the AKC until 1934, and the older Cardigan was not AKC recognized until 1935.  Prior to the AKC distinction of the breeds, the two were allowed to interbreed freely.  If you are interested in seeing how the Pembroke Welsh Corgi has changed since the early 1900’s, please check out Corgis of the Past.

The Tail of Two Corgis- 02
The two Corgis are similar in appearance in that they both are low, deep-chested dogs, but they have their differences.   In the US, the most obvious difference is that the Cardigan is tailed, and the Pembroke is usually not.  Outside of the US, the Pembroke often has a full tail.  How is anyone supposed to tell the difference if both dogs have tails?

In general, the Cardigan is a larger dog—taller, heavier in weight, and heavier-boned.  The Cardigan is also rounder, sporting rounded ears and “round” feet, where the toes are all the same length.  They have a much wider range of acceptable colors, too. For ease of comparison, their most noticeable physical differences have been charted below. 

	Pembroke Welsh Corgi	Cardigan Welsh Corgi
Height	10 to 12”	10.5 to 12.5”
Weight	Dogs 27-30 lbs; Bitches 25-28 lbs	Dogs 30-38 lbs; Bitches 25-34 lbs
Colors	Red, Sable, Tricolor	Red, Sable, Tricolor, Brindle, Merle, Black
Ears	Pointed	Rounded
Feet	Oval	Round
Expression	Intelligent and interested, not sly	Alert, gentle, watchful, and friendly
Temperament	Bold, kindly	Adaptable, loyal, affectionate, even-tempered

Impress your friends, neighbors, and strangers when you inevitably have to tell them the difference between the two Corgis! 

The differences in personality match the breed ancestry: Pembrokes are spitz and Cardigans are hounds. The Pembroke is the more friendly and social of the two, while the Cardigan tends to be more aloof. Years of interbreeding prior to the AKC distinction of the breeds has brought them closer together in appearance and personality, but they are still quite distinct.

So I Heard You Like Herding- 03
General temperament and expected behavior- 03a

There is something about Corgis that draws people to them.  Perhaps it is those wonderful stumpy legs, that bunny butt, or even those huge satellite-dish ears.   Most people who fall in love with Corgis fall in love with how they look—and that’s okay!  But, adding a dog to your family based solely on looks can have serious consequences for all involved.  Corgis often surprise uneducated owners because they do what they were bred to do, and that does not usually coincide with the owners’ expectations. 

Corgis aren’t for everyone. They’re cute and stubby, but they’re fairly difficult dogs to own and generally don’t make good dogs for first time owners or the unprepared. If you like and are used to the personality of Labs and Goldens or the idyllic “family dog”, you will likely struggle with a Corgi.

Corgis are herding dogs.  When most people think of herding, they think of sheep.  Corgis were bred to herd a much tougher opponent--cattle--they take a hands-on approach to doing so.  Unlike Border Collies, which herd sheep by eyeing and stalking, Corgis control herd movement by chasing, biting, and barking.  This behavior and attitude is instinctual even in Corgis that haven't herded in generations, and makes the Corgi a rather "hard" breed.

Herding requires a certain level of intelligence.  The dog must be able to work independently of its handler, determine the best course of action in a constantly changing environment, solve problems, and accomplish goals as a team, among other necessities.  Corgis have the intellect to do all those things and then much more. They know what they want and they know how to get it, and are very stubborn as a result.  They can’t be pushed around.  They are tough little dogs with their own ideas about how the world should work. They’re highly intelligent and perceptive, so they will try to manipulate you and others to bend to their will, but are usually just stubborn with the hopes of wearing you down. Corgis don’t do things simply because you want them to do it. They’re still a biddable and trainable breed, but they’re not going to budge if they don’t think they’re getting appropriately compensated. If you give a Corgi an inch, it will try its absolute hardest to take a mile. It’s very important to establish rules and never waiver on where the lines are drawn. Consistency is vital to a well-behaved Corgi and they thrive on it. If you give in once, the Corgi will continually test your boundaries and see how far you are willing to let them go.

Because they were bred to stand up to 1,000 pounds of angry cow and keep a whole herd in line, they aren’t going to give up easily against an adult human—especially not a human that has proven itself to be unreliable when enforcing the household rules. Corgis raised by weak-willed owners have a tendency to become controlling or even aggressive, in part because they become very used to getting what they want. Resource guarding can grow to be a serious problem if the Corgi is used to getting its way some or most of the time. The hardness of the breed means that the Corgi is more likely to get aggressive, destructive, loud, and possibly physical when under-stimulated, as opposed to obsessive-compulsive and neurotic like softer herding breeds. Corgis bred without temperament in mind tend to have extra doses of these traits and can be more difficult to work with even when they are completely fulfilled.  (Keeping the Corgi stimulated, and therefore well-behaved, will be discussed in the next section.)

Corgis will herd you, the cat, other dogs, and especially children.  This means that they nip and bite in an attempt to get you to go where they want you to go.  This shark-like behavior is a normal side effect of their herding heritage, but is usually an unpleasant surprise for new puppy owners.  When you bring a Corgi home, you must prepare to deal with such behavior.  Warn your children and your guests, and have a plan in place to teach your Corgi that such actions are unacceptable inside the house.

The herding instinct also manifests itself in play through barking at things that move, aren’t moving, or in general aren’t doing what the Corgi wants them to do.  If quiet is a concern inside or out, you may want to consider a different breed, or be prepared to stop play when things get out of hand.  At the dog park, a Corgi may run around and bark at other dogs playing, seemingly policing their activities.  A Corgi will almost certainly bark when playing soccer with the family, or when doing any other activity that may simulate herding.  Corgis are watchful dogs, too, and they will bark when they feel it is necessary to alert the family.  You and the Corgi will often disagree on things that require alerting; doorbells, keys, and movement outside are all typical barking triggers.  In a similar vein, Corgis are very vocal when nothing is happening and sport a repertoire of grumbles, mumbles, moans, and gruffs.

The Corgi personality is overwhelming for many dog owners, particularly those that expect the Corgi to be something it isn’t. The key to raising a good Corgi is to be more stubborn than the dog on things that matter. (And maybe be willing to compromise on things that don’t.)

The Pembroke can turn into quite an undesirable creature in the wrong hands, but Pembrokes can be amazing, phenomenal little dogs when they’re properly cared for. They are keen at reading body language and are very sensitive to correction, especially from someone they respect and trust. They are kind and gentle with people, if demanding. It is fairly easy to have a conversation with a Corgi; their large ears are very expressive and their faces hide no emotions.  All the Pembroke really wants is to be with its family. Despite the bossiness and stubbornness, Pembrokes are quite charming. A proper Pembroke is a delightful mixture of self-serving impishness and eagerness to please its human companions.

Keeping the Corgi happy and fulfilled- 03b

In addition to contributing to the mental state of the Corgi, their herding heritage contributes to their physical state.  Many people see a Corgi and think of it as a small dog that has little exercise needs, and they classify it as being an “apartment dog” based on its size.  This is false in many ways.  For one, a Corgi is a medium sized dog with no legs, not a small dog.  Secondly, herding is a physically demanding job, and Corgis are able to fill it.  They have high energy requirements in a seemingly small package and do no better in a big house than they would in an apartment if they do not meet those requirements.   Third, their short legs often deceive people into thinking they are slow, lumbering movers, when any Corgi owner could tell you that they are dogs built like bullets with a speed to match.  What good is a herder if they cannot even keep up with their herd? 

High energy combined with lots of smarts lends itself to disaster when the dog is not properly cared for.  A bored dog, no matter the breed, will find a way to reduce its boredom—typically through destruction of the home.  It’s imperative that Corgis receive appropriate amounts of exercise to avoid this outcome.   A tired Corgi is a dog that is not causing problems, be it destruction, barking, herding of children, or any other undesired behavior.  Activities to work the Corgi’s brain are also a requirement.

Corgis are smart little gremlins and tend to be easily bored by repetitive tasks. For some Corgis, going on a daily neighborhood walk (or even a weekly neighborhood walk) is insufferably boring. They would rather just not walk at all, planting their feet and refusing to participate willingly. It’s very important to find a regular physical activity that engages the Pembroke to avoid facing off in a battle of wills. Corgis (and other dwarf dogs) do not make good jogging or biking partners for this reason, but also because regular running is too stressful on their joints. Unless you are running or biking in sand or soft dirt, jogging and biking should not be part of your Corgi’s regular exercise routine but are fine to do on occasion.

In groups of dogs, many Corgis like to be the “fun police”. They will bark at other dogs playing and chase them around, sometimes joining in on the real fun for mere seconds at a time before resuming the barking. They also have a tendency to chase and bite at other dogs when playing one-on-one. This is completely normal Corgi behavior and it’s how they like to play, but the barking and biting may not be very welcome at the dog park.

Physical exercise alone is not enough to keep a Corgi happy. They really need to do something that has them using their brains and making them think. Puzzle toys are okay to take the edge off, but are only a drop in the bucket. Pembrokes need to have some sort of training going on in their lives, be it working on regular household obedience or training frivolous tricks or preparing for a sport. They live for learning new things and having the chance to really work with their human companions. Letting such an enthusiastic worker go without work is nothing short of a tragedy, and the Pembroke would agree. In fact, they often pick jobs for themselves, and you may not appreciate the jobs they decide to take on. It’s better to decide for them.

A Short Dog’s Shortcomings- 04

Part of being an informed and prepared owner is knowing what health problems may eventually happen to your dog.  Pembrokes are a fairly healthy breed, but the dwarfism that causes their short legs also results in numerous musculoskeletal issues.

The dwarf mutation alters the growth and development of cartilage.  The growth plates that cause bones to grow are normally thick, producing bone systematically until sex hormones trigger growth to stop.  In the Corgi and other dwarfed dogs, the growth plates are very thin, reproducing incorrectly and sporadically and then maturing much sooner than normal, therefore producing a gnarled, shortened bone.  The fragile growth plates lend themselves to easy injury.  An injured growth plate is at risk for causing one bone to stop growth while the rest continue, producing a twisted or bowed limb that can be painful and is certainly not sound.  Growth plates become injured with overexertion.  High-impact activities such as running or jumping can crush the plate.  It’s very important to limit such activities until the Corgi is fully grown at around 1-1.5 years.  Don't stop your puppy from running and playing, but do stop your puppy from jumping off of furniture, don't take your puppy jogging, and avoid strenuous agility work or repetitive small jumps.

The joints in a dwarfed dog are very different from the joints in a standard dog—like the rest of the dog’s skeletal system, they are deformed.  In fact, if the same joints were on an average dog, they would certainly be considered dysplastic.  In a Corgi, these types of seemingly dysplastic joints are "normal" and allow easy, pain-free movement.  As in standard dogs, dwarves have varying degrees of joint quality and are capable of developing hip or elbow dysplasia.  The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, or the OFA, evaluates the joint health of any breed of dog.  All dogs should be OFA tested and pass with “excellent”,  “good”, or "fair" evaluations before being bred to reduce the occurrence of crippling joint disorders in the offspring and, ultimately, the population at large. If you have questions about the OFA status of your dog's sire or dam, you can search offa.org with the AKC registration name or number in question.  If the tests were done through OFA, the results will show on the website.

Rapid cartilage degeneration caused by dwarfism is present in every member of the breed. Cartilage is a connective tissue that cushions joints as well as holds them together.  Because cartilage wears down faster in dwarfed dogs, osteoarthritis may develop at an early age—particularly in areas with small bones, such as the wrist or feet.  As such, some Corgis may become very sensitive about having their feet touched and manipulated.

The discs in the spine are affected by early and rapid cartilage degeneration, as well, which puts the Corgi a high risk for a condition called intervertebral disc disease, or IVDD. In dwarf dogs, the normally squishy disc between the vertebrae in the spine hardens prematurely and severely reduces spine flexibility.  When the discs are forced to compress or stretch, the disc can rupture and put pressure on the spinal cord and surrounding nerves.  IVDD has various degrees, from mild back pain to complete paralysis.  All Corgis are at risk for IVDD, and the risk increases exponentially with extra weight.  Even just 2-3 extra pounds can be problematic. An unfit Corgi with little supporting muscle is more at-risk than a well-conditioned Corgi, particularly when engaging in high-impact activities including jumps and quick turns or twists.  The effect is cumulative, meaning the dog's risk for a catastrophic IVDD episode increases over time.

Signs of an injured disc that could develop into full-blown IVDD include limping, reluctance to walk, or reluctance to do other activities that the dog normally enjoys.  The dog should be rested with little to no exercise and on-leash potty breaks for 1-2 days.  If the limp or reluctance continues, the dog should see a vet.  The earlier these symptoms are diagnosed and treated, the better.  If these symptoms are ignored, they could progress to an inability to walk, an inability to stand, and then paralysis.  In these cases, the dog should receive vet treatment immediately. IVDD does not always progress slowly and can happen as a result of an injury from something as simple as jumping off the couch or turning too fast during fetch.  

Obesity for Corgis is more than just a cosmetic problem.  It can be a death sentence.  The extra weight pulls on the spine and aggravates the joints, precipitating problems that otherwise may not have occurred.  Corgis are nothing if not motivated by food, but it is essential that weight is carefully monitored.  It’s very easy for a Corgi to gain weight.  A good exercise regime and appropriate portions of food are quite necessary for a Corgi’s health.  Ask your vet for a candid assessment of the Corgi's weight and take their opinion seriously.  Don't get offended.  Step up the walks and cut back the food.  A Corgi with lightly padded ribs and a tucked loin is a Corgi that is going to live a longer, happier life. 

At the twilight of a Corgi’s life, obese or not, there is one last problem owners need to worry about: degenerative myleopathy, or DM.  DM is the doggy version of ALS.  The age of onset is usually 8 and above.  When symptoms are noticed, life expectancy is 6 to 12 months as the paralysis works its way up the spine.  True DM is also completely painless.  Currently, 51% of Pembrokes test “at risk” for the disease. Most “at risk” dogs do not come down with DM, which indicates something else is afoot in the onset of the disease.  Until researchers identify what that “something else” is, DM is best avoided by caring for your Corgi the best way you can and hoping it doesn’t strike.  All things considered, DM isn’t the most terrible way for a Corgi to end its life provided both you and the dog have the proper support you need.  

Two other diseases that are routinely tested for in breeding stock are progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and Von Willebrand’s disease (vWD).  PRA is just what it sounds like, a progressive loss of function in the retina that leads to eventual blindness.  Corgis begin showing signs around the middle of their life span. Von Willebrand’s disease is a bleeding disorder common to many breeds and can be avoided by a simple genetic test.  Thankfully, due to testing and appropriate breeding, the occurrence of these diseases is rather small in the Corgi population. 

If you notice your Corgi acting stiff, losing hind limb function, limping, or otherwise in pain without an immediate source, take your dog to the vet.  It could be a sign of musculoskeletal stress, and with these sorts of injuries, quicker attention to the problem means better results on the path to recovery.

A Hairy Situation- 05

The Corgi has a wonderfully made double coat that insulates them from the elements.  The quality of the hair is just right so that after a day of moving cattle in muddy fields, no bath is required—the dirt will fall right out as the coat dries.  The coat is truly a marvel to behold, but it comes at a price: shed hair, everywhere.  No surface, food, or drink is immune to the scourge of the Corgi coat.  No amount of brushing, blow drying, bathing, Furminating, or any other sort of grooming will stop the encroachment of shed hair into your life.  The amount they shed is phenomenal. 

Imagine, if you will, the greatest amount of hair you can feasibly foresee coming off an animal.  Now, imagine two or three times that amount.  That is a rough estimate of how much Corgis shed, and probably an underestimate at that.  If you are not okay with a dog shedding its weight in hair every month, a Corgi certainly is not for you.  This warning may seem like a gross exaggeration of what should be a minor part of everyday dog ownership, but it is something many cannot comprehend until they experience it first-hand—and by then, it is too late.

Besides almost constant brushing to keep the shedding low, the coat needs little maintenance—bathing more than once every couple of months is unnecessary unless the Corgi in question has become unspeakably disgusting.  Only the bottoms of the feet need to be regularly trimmed, don't worry about needing to clip the other parts of the coat.  The Corgi’s short stature also lends itself to more coat maintenance on rainy days; when a tall dog would normally get just his feet wet, a Corgi’s whole underside will be soaked.  In terms of other grooming, Corgis need care just like every other dog—nails trimmed and teeth cleaned. 

Final Rebarks- 06

Like all dogs, Corgis need to be socialized very well or they can develop fear and aggression towards people and other dogs.  They require basic obedience using consistent, motivational methods or they may become very unruly; force-based methods are not likely to be as effective.  They need a lot of exercise and mental workouts to keep them out of trouble, quiet, and in tip-top shape.  Without proper care, Corgis can become very difficult to manage.  You must be dedicated to these dogs in order to make it work out, but they will become dedicated to you in return. 

When you get a Corgi, you are gaining a member of the family.  They are not dogs that you can “set and forget”—they thrive on human interaction.  They don’t need to be constantly entertained; simply being with the family is enough.  They are incredibly loving, wonderful animals, and no amount of hair will make any loving Corgi owner regret their decision.  If you are seeking a somewhat challenging, intelligent, sensitive, bold, vocal, and social animal, a Corgi is it.

Remember, all dogs are individuals and may not conform to breed standard.  To maximize the chances of getting what you want out of your Corgi, and to minimize the occurrence of health problems, seek responsible, reputable breeders.  Never buy a dog from anyone or anywhere else.  If at all possible, rescue your pal from a local shelter or Corgi rescue organization!  For additional help in deciding if, what, where, why, and how to adopt, please feel free to browse my other posts.

A note About "blue merle Pembrokes"- 06a
There is a trend to produce and sell "blue merle Pembrokes" to unsuspecting buyers who think the merle color is unique and want the eye-catching merle coat in their Pembroke Welsh Corgi.  The truth is that there is no such thing as a blue merle Pembroke!  Let me say that again, because it's important: there is no such thing as a merle Pembroke! 

If you are dead-set on a merle dog but do not understand why it's a problem that "blue merle Pembrokes" are being produced and sold, then consider why you want a Corgi in the first place. Corgis are so much more than their outward appearance and color is the least important part of the dog.  If the breeder makes color an important factor in breeding, imagine what traits are being lost to the pursuit of color--good health, stable temperaments, predictable behavior, and much more are lost when the breeder breeds for color.  Mixing the Pembroke with other breeds makes the behavior, temperament, and health of the animal much less predictable. The "blue merle Pembroke" trend is a great disservice to the breed, and continuing to call the dogs "blue merle Pembrokes" spreads a great deal of misinformation.

Any person purposefully producing "blue merle Pembrokes" is an unscrupulous breeder looking to make some fast cash.  Anyone producing and selling "merle Pembrokes" is mixing them with some other breed of dog.  Merle does not occur naturally within the Pembroke population.  In order to get a merle dog, the dog must be mixed with another breed of dog to get that color. 

If you are interested in a well-bred Pembroke, never under any circumstances acquire a dog from someone who also breeds "blue merle Pembrokes" or crosses their Pembrokes with other breeds.  There is absolutely no reason to do so other than to sell as many dogs as fast as possible.  Similarly, there's no good reason to purchase a "blue merle Pembroke".

There is no such thing as a "blue merle Pembroke".  Call it what it is: a mixed breed.